Zao is an Asian word for the spirit that embodies food and shelter, elements vital to survival then. Today some might add shopping to the short list of life's essential elements, which makes Zao Noodle Bar's presence in University Village if not profound, perhaps something to meditate on.

Zao, a San Francisco Bay Area chain that now numbers six, fits right into the bazaar of stylish retail emporiums that U-Village has become, but unlike some of its upscale neighbors Zao (pronounced ZOW) won't give customers sticker shock.

You can eat heartily for a 10-spot but chances are you'll be cajoled into spending more by a menu that hustles its wares like an enterprising street vendor.

Much of the pan-Asian fare served here - meat, fish, tofu and vegetables stocking bowls of noodles or stir-fried rice or threading skewers or filling lettuce leaf wraps - started out as street food in its native land. If Zao's interpretation doesn't always succeed in capturing the vibrancy and nuance that makes Asian food so exciting, it's good enough and filling, and along with the handsome setting, certainly restorative for those determined to shop until they drop.

Subdued light from boxy, low-slung paper shades falls on a bright red concrete floor, slatted wood benches, a flickering fire and lacquer shelves holding decorative arrangements of groceries, make this intriguing semi-circular space (formerly Briazz Cafe) feel at once exotic and homey, lively and relaxing. Never mind if the servers can't identify the dipping sauces correctly, they are otherwise attentive, efficient and especially nice to children, who are welcomed with smiles and dragon placemats to color.

Check Please:

Spicy black-bean chicken and vegetable stir-fry: Broccoli, carrot, squash and mushrooms are joined by nubbins of chicken in a nicely balanced black-bean sauce. "Virtuous food-rebelliously seasoned" says the menu sage, but this is a two-star rebel at most. A fluffy pile of jasmine rice makes a nice complement.

Hoisin roast pork loin: Four slices of pork loin shaved paper thin float in broth redolent of Chinese five-spice but little else. Fresh whole spinach leaves and carrot slivers add texture and interest, but the thick Shanghai

noodles are a little too soft. "Grounding food. Make your acupuncturist happy" says the menu sage. Food sage says: filling, but doesn't delight your taste buds.

Skewers-combination platter: Eight skewers and three sauces comprise this satay sampler. Best of the bunch: moist grilled chicken with a sassy peanut sauce. The Korean beef is tough, the bell pepper and squash so charred little flavor registers. The sweet wasabi soy sauce isn't very assertive; the dense yakitori sauce is overwhelming.

Pot of tea & sake: Beverages include soft drinks, juices, wine, beer, sake or sake-based cocktails, Thai iced tea, Vietnamese coffee and aromatic pots of specially blended full-leaf teas.

Itemized bill, meal for two:

Skewers-combination platter $ 8.95

Spicy black-bean chicken and vegetable stir-fry 7.50

Hoisin roast pork loin 6.50

Pot of tea 5.50

Sake 4.75

Subtotal 33.20

Tax (9.1%) 3.02

Total 36.22