The drinkable art of Vessel

Writer, bartender and bon vivant Paul Harrington -- whose book "Cocktail: The Drinks Bible for the 21st Century," now out of print, is a must-read for anyone who aspires to drink above one's station -- has over the years laid out what defines "a good bar." As much as he loves watching a ballgame and throwing back a few beers at joints called "Dizzy's, Tippy's and Happy's," the places that really fire his imagination are more kitchen than TV room -- bars with "Pernod, Chartreuse, Bushmills, Cointreau, and Pimm's" behind the counter; places where one finds bartenders who rarely touch the soda gun and are "relaxed and confident"; last but not least, he loves those places where his basic guidelines for a true cocktail are met:

1. A cocktail is no more than 3 to 5 ounces in volume.
2. It is well chilled.
3. It is never overly sweet.
4. It is elegant.

Harrington would likely go nuts for Vessel, a two-month-old upstart located next door to the 5th Avenue Theatre. The space itself is a work of art: Split over two levels, anchored by a striking frosted-glass staircase and lit a soft, creamy white, Vessel impresses even before a drop is poured. Every inch of the space is put to good use – the upper-level balcony affords a terrific view of the street, the unusual "storefront"-like seating caters to those who like to be seen, and the immaculate bathrooms cater to the only bar crowd that matters: the ladies. There's one women's bathroom and one unisex. Sorry, fellers, but you should have gone before you left home.

But all of that is secondary to what's being concocted behind the bar, which is pure art. The bartenders of Vessel do everything by Harrington's book: They squeeze their own fruit, mix their own simple syrup and mix every drink with the careful eye of a chemist. Pernod, Chartreuse and the like are very much in evidence on the shelves, along with some truly unexpected spirits: Vessel stocks Maraschino, a slightly bitter liqueur made from Marasca cherries. It has little in common with those sweet, sticky maraschino cherries that accent every Shirley Temple. Somewhat more common is blonde Lillet, an aperitif wine; if it sounds familiar, that's because it was practically a plot device in the recent James Bond film "Casino Royale." Want to order a Vesper? Here's where you'll get one, beautifully made.

I didn't order an Aviation, the Maraschino-based drink my friends and I used to concoct using Harrington's recipe (he copied it from the Rainbow Room at New York's Rockefeller Center), because I didn't want to press my luck. Instead, I sampled another Big Apple classic – the Cablegram Cocktail, a mix of rye, lemon juice, simple syrup and fresh (made on the premises!) ginger beer. It is flowery, slightly tart and utterly invigorating, and as I declared after my first sip, "I can feel myself getting smarter."

"You are," my bartender insisted with a grin. "Even now, it's burning off all your dead brain cells."

Also begging to be enjoyed are the creamy Marmalade Sour, made from cachaca, lemon juice, orange bitters, egg whites and marmalade, and the Depth Charge, a potent blend of gin (puckishly called "juniper-and-citrus-infused vodka" on the menu), Lillet, Absente and orange peel. These aren't throwaway drinks, something to pass the time until dinner: These drinks are the main course. (And they're priced accordingly, at $10 per.) Every cocktail on Vessel's menu is a distinct adventure for the palate, and I'm looking forward to making my way through it as my finances allow.

A word on munchies: Vessel has got them, and while they're scarcely bite-sized, they're very good and are a nice compliment to the drinks. Strongly recommended are the potato latkes – half-dollar sized potato pancakes served with sour cream and pear chutney. They're just savory enough to convince you to pop for another round of drinks – which isn't to say that the idea of a second and even a third round won't occur to you naturally 'round these parts.

The best thing about Vessel, however, is the service. Rarely have I plunked down 10 bucks for a drink and felt like I was getting my money's worth. The bartender gamely answered all my questions while he mixed my drinks, and never once rolled his eyes or seemed impatient with me even as I monopolized his time. Author Harrington once described the ideal bartender as an "alchemist," someone whose informed and confident air is akin to that of a great painter, say, or a master chef ... which, of course, the best bartenders are. The next time I go to Vessel, I'm ordering an Aviation.

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