"Re-toxify" at Venik Lounge

South Lake Union's new Venik Lounge has a wine list consisting of less than a dozen bottles. They have nine different kinds of beer -- with just three of them on tap -- and a handful of champagnes, sparkling waters and sodas. And that's fine, because if you come to Venik -- a place that makes some of the best vodka infusions you've had -- and order a bottle of Miller, you're completely missing the point of the place. It's akin to going to a steakhouse for the bread.

A small but elegant neighbor and companion to the Russian-style bathhouse and spa Banya 5, Venik is intended to help spa patrons "re-toxify after they detoxify," says a Venik employee with a grin. But you don't need to visit Banya 5 to enjoy Venik's vodkas, infused in-house with organic fruits and vegetables and served ice cold. Upon immediate reflection, every last one of them seems like the best taste you've ever had in your mouth.

Each vodka comes with a complimentary bite. You get a small taste of prosciutto with the organic cantaloupe-infused vodka; creamy blue cheese with the cherry vodka; berries and chocolate with the blueberry vodka; an anise cookie with the lemon-mint vodka; and my favorite, a couple of small pickles with the garlic-and-pepper-infused vodka. The infusions taste terrific under regular circumstances, so I can only imagine how good they taste after you've run back and forth between Banya 5's 120- to 200-degree steam room and its 55-degree cold pool.

Moving past the vodkas, there's a solid menu of specialty cocktails to enjoy. The Borscht Manhattan brings together Wild Turkey and chilled borscht, served over ice with a garnish of sliced beets. Venik's margarita, the Seattle SLU, is practically a salad: Cuervo Black with Cointreau, avocado, apples and pomegranate juice, garnished with lime and apple. And the Berry Cherry features the infused blueberry and cherry vodkas, hand-shaken and served with whipped cream and a blueberry. It tastes like it should be good for you.

On the subject of tastes, the food menu is small but every bit as thought out as the drinks. The Venik plate is an ideal match for a round of vodkas, with salmon roe, black bread, cucumbers, red onions and sour cream. (A caviar "add-on" is available, at market price.) The spinach bratwurst is marinated in the garlic-pepper vodka and served with sweet hot mustard and red cabbage. And if you prefer to keep things traditional, fear not, tovarisch -- Venik has a fine bowl of borscht, nice and cold. There's also sorbet for dessert, but frankly, I'd rather drink more vodka.

Venik is at 227 9th Ave. N., 206-223-3734. Visit the lounge online at www.veniklounge.com.