Wining about town

To paraphrase a line from "When Harry Met Sally," "Wine bars are to people in the '00s what restaurants were to people in the '90s." And why not? There is something inherently theatrical about the culture of wine. Perhaps it's fitting that the recent trend in wine bars seems to mirror the Seattle theater scene: The size of the house may vary, but there's art in the spotlight, and you get to drink it in. (Literally, in this case.) Here are a few choice spots to enjoy this star attraction.

Purple Café and Wine Bar

The new grand theater of Seattle's wine bars – its Paramount, if you will – is located mere steps from Benaroya Hall. In true theatrical tradition, nearly everything about Purple Café is over-the-top. This is an urban cathedral, with two stories of steel, stone and glass dominated by a central bar and a massive wine "tower" rising ominously up to the heavens. (I half-expected the Eye of Sauron to float down the circular staircase at some point, with a recommended bottle of pinot.) It may appear overwhelming at first, but Purple Café is all about relaxing and enjoying the combination of extraordinary contemporary American cuisine and a wine list that actually deserves that tower. More than 70 wines are offered by the glass and flights like "A Variety of Varietals" are designed to give even the wine novice an idea of what all the fuss has been about these last few millennia.

Both the lunch and dinner menus are worthy of applause, but we recommend the prix fixe menu available after 4 p.m. Chose from three or four courses, with or without wine pairings, for $30-$45. The upstairs wine bar offers light bites and a spacious lounge atmosphere overlooking the big show. Should you prefer community theater, Purple Café also boasts locations in Woodinville and Kirkland.

Smash Wine Bar and Bistro

The good people of Wallingford have decreed Smash deserving of its name, making this charming storefront bistro on 45th an immediate hit since opening in April 2006. Here "food and wine collide," and what a lovely collision it is. The emphasis is heavily Northwestern, both in the glass and on the plate. On a recent visit, the seared scallops – laid on a bed of butternut squash puree, drizzled with brown butter – inspired groans of ecstasy from bar patrons (including this writer). And the offering of cheese "flights" is inspired. A dozen varieties of fromage – goat, sheep and good old cow – pair perfectly with the 30 or so wines offered by the glass. Bravo.

The WineBar on 24th

The real explosion in the theater of the vine has come in Ballard. Portalis – now on its second, larger Ballard Avenue space – has the confident stance of a veteran performer, while upscale understudy DiVino slid right onto Portalis' old boards with a decidedly Kubrickian approach (dig those "Clockwork Orange" furnishings). But the true sign of the continued gentrification of this neighborhood, where draught Rainier was once the beverage of choice, lies just north of 58th Street on 24th Avenue. Here in the space of a block you'll find upscale dining at Dandelion, the baked temptations of Café Besalu, and a little slice of Napa Valley ... or is it Tuscany?

Either way, The WineBar on 24th delivers a memorable performance. This one-man show – actually a one man, one dog show – is tight but cozy, with a bar to rival bigger establishments and tables made from up-ended barrels. Aaron the owner offers tastes and advice, pours the wine and preps light fare right behind the bar while a stoic Sharpei named Neville sees to the door. Note: This is a wine shop as well, so feel free to browse the seasonal selection and take a few bottles home. Live entertainment packs the place on weekends in Ballard's burgeoning answer to café society.