I don't put away the cheeseburgers the way I used to. Damn you, borderline cholesterol levels! Tasty burgers have become something I have to work up to -- the reward at the end of a long road paved with salads and tofu.

Recently, that road led me to Zippy's Giant Burgers in "WesSeattle's" Highland Park neighborhood. (The deliberate misspelling is on Zippy's menu and signage, and let's face it, it's catchy.) Zippy's has been open less than two weeks, and I only ordered one burger -- for the aformentioned "road" -- so I'm not quite ready to write you a full review of the place. I will say this, though: The next time I treat myself to a burger, I want Zippy's to make it.

I ordered the "No. 11" (curiously, it's the ninth burger listed and the only burger with a number for a name). A tender (and enormous) beef patty and fresh-baked bun are topped generously with chipotle mayo, iceberg lettuce, goat horn peppers and a blend of Tillamook cheeses, and the whole assemblage is somehow anointed with pure freaking deliciousness. Black-bean patties are available for vegetarians, and bacon for those willing to go even further in the other direction.

As I said, I've only tried one of Zippy's burgers so far. I'll return there soon with some friends, order half the menu and get back to you with a full report. But if the other burgers at this ambitious WesSeattle joint are as good as its No. 11, there may just be a reason for Red Mill to start watching its back.

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