LANGLEY -- This south Whidbey Island town is a wonderful reminder of small-town charm. From free and easy street parking to shop owners who personally welcome you, a day in Langley can be pure pleasure.
The town has been luring me for years. The turnoff -- not far from the Clinton ferry landing -- beckoned, but there was always something more urgent farther up the island. It's embarrassing to admit that my only previous trip to Langley was for a Christmas Eve service more than 20 years ago.
Earlier this month, however, the assignment was simply Langley -- shopping, touring, eating. Irresistible! I had a list of places that friends had recommended, and it was the perfect gray, soggy day to get out of the city.
The wait for the Mukilteo-to-Clinton ferry was only about 30 minutes. The crossing to Clinton takes about 15 minutes and it's a mere six miles from Clinton to Langley. Ferry wait and all, it was less than 90 minutes from Seattle.
Downtown Langley resembles those "high streets" often found in British towns. The town sits on a bluff above Saratoga passage, and its "high street" is a three-block stretch of First Street. And, like its European counterparts, there's not a chain store to be found.
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The back porch of Moonraker, the bookstore on First Street that features planters decorated with the spines of great books.
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Most buildings are vintage -- some have been around since the early 20th century -- and they appear to lean against each other for comfort and stability. They're painted everything from pink to peach. Signs tend to be unobtrusive and street numbers may be missing or strangely placed. But no matter. From the minute I parked the car and wandered into the nearest store, shopkeepers were great tour guides.
Outrageous cowboy boots lured me into Frankie's Clothing Company at 111 Anthes Ave., between First and Second streets. Owner Bev Monte Calvo pointed out the Chamber of Commerce building (a yellow house about a block away), where they have brochures galore for visitors.
Lowry-James at the corner of Anthes and First promised rare prints and books. Hand-colored lithographs from the 19th century lined one wall, but it was the hand-made beeswax candles that begged a closer look. Priscilla Lowery-Gregor said she makes them in her kitchen and sells thousands during the holiday season. Check them out at www.lowryjames.com [1]
Across the street is a string of art galleries featuring everything from glass to paintings and carvings by locals.
Antique shops abound in Langley. Whidbey Island Antiques, www.whidbeyislandantiques.com/ [2], has a huge selection of Byers' Choice caroler figures -- doll-like figures in period costumes that Marilyn Bunker, owner of the store, said people collect year-round. Shoppers, however, seemed more interested in a rare wood cookstove in the window, and beautifully refurbished furniture.
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Star Store Mercantile, a hip "dry goods store" on First Street in Langley, sells everything. A clothesline from the balcony displays pajamas.
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Virginia's Antiques, www.langley-wa.com/L/antiques/virginias/virginias.html [3], on First Street is one of those floor-to-ceiling stores that needs at least an hour to sort through. Old china, Asian-inspired home accessories, a battered wooden sled with metal runners, antique jewelry and wall art are just a few categories worth mentioning.
Wayward Son, goto.seattlepi.com/r36 [4], sells estate jewelry and original designs by its owner, Sandrajean Wainwright. This jewelry maker has a passion for chocolate, so the store is half jewelry, half sweets.
In the middle of everything on First Street is Star Store Mercantile, a store I'd been hearing about for years. "It's the perfect place to find unusual gifts," friends have raved. They were right. This store has almost everything: Shoes and apparel for men women and children, tabletop items, kitchenware, bags of pine cones.
Wooden plank floors, an adjoining grocery store and deli, and a wine section are all part of a circular floor plan. Children's apparel and women's shoes are upstairs.
Tamar and Gene Felton have owned the store for 22 years. It was jammed during my visit and Tamar apologized for having minimal holiday decor for sale. In fact, people had been buying the decorations they'd put up for the store. But they still had a good supply of inflatable moose heads. The one mounted on the store wall sported a muffler. "You can pretend he's a reindeer and hang things from his antlers," Tamar said.
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Denise LaRue, Virginia LaRue, and Michele LaRue, sister, mother, and sister respectively, own adjacent shops on First Street in Langley.
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Dogs and cats are another part of Langley's charm. Mollie is the "working dog" at Big Sister, goto.seattlepi.com/r37 [5], a store that specializes in sizes 14-26. A small sign on the door notifies entering shoppers that there's a "friendly barking dog inside."
Washable silks, velvets and some of the most unusual silk scarves in captivity can be found here. The scarves are ruched, ruffled or perhaps trimmed in beads.
The dog across the street at Roberta (one of those no-number, minimal-sign shops on First) is named Taylor, and he spends a lot of time sleeping in a special bed near the front windows.
Owner Roberta Sawyer is a knitter who makes accessories to complement imported cashmere sweaters and other luxe and hip merchandise, such as the shapely, pieced boiled wool jackets from France. "People always wanted to buy the yarns," she said. So she added hand-spun and dyed yarns from all over the world.
While some customers were trying on clothes, a woman arrived -- yarn-in-hand -- for knitting advice. Taylor the dog greeted her like a long-lost friend (probably a local, and a frequent visitor).
Ask locals where to have lunch and answers range from Langley Cafe, www.langley-wa.com/cl/ [6], and Edgecliff to the Norwegian Festival going on that weekend at the high school. Langley Cafe won. It was nearby on First Street, and it looked clean, friendly and informal.
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Herb Helsel describes Langley Clock and Gallery, the Second Street shop he owns with his wife Marilyn, as "a hobby that got out of hand."
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Specials of the day were spinach/noodle lasagna and Greek chicken. Soup was Mediterranean cream of spinach. I ordered the soup and moussaka, a favorite eggplant dish. Minutes later the waitress announced to a newly arrived group that the daily specials were gone. Hmm, all those look-like-locals crowding the tables must have known precisely what to order.
Both the soup and moussaka were superb choices for a cold, blustery day. They were the perfect warm-up for more shopping.
Paving-stone pathways curve between buildings from First to Second streets, and continue behind Second to a group of newer buildings containing a bakery and Quilting by the Sea, http://www.quiltingbythesea.com/ [7], a shop that Better Homes & Gardens magazine has rated one of the top 10 quilt companies in the country. The owner mentioned that there's a storewide sale the weekend after Thanksgiving.
Bargain hunters should check out South Whidbey Good Cheer, www.goodcheer.org/ [8], a beautifully organized and well-stocked thrift store that supports the local food bank. Nearby is Teens Unlimited, at 113 McLeod Alley. This consignment store for preteens and teens is full of merchandise that looks new at first glance. Trendy camisoles, sweaters, blue jeans for $10 a pair make for attractive shopping.
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It was getting colder. And darker. The oversize brownies in the bakery were appealing, but there was a long line. I headed for the ferry. It was already loading when I bought a return ticket and raced toward the boat.
Ahhhh. There's nothing like being the last car aboard.
* Ferry -- Ferries depart from Mukilteo approximately every 30 minutes from 5:05 a.m. Return trips every half hour throughout the day. $6.40 car and driver each way.
* On the island -- Langley is six miles from the Clinton ferry landing. Drive through Clinton to state Route 525. Watch for the sign to Langley. When you see a Red Apple market on the right, prepare to turn right toward Langley at the next stoplight. There's a "To Langley" sign.
* Information -- Langley Chamber of Commerce, langleychamb.whidbey.com/ [9], 208 Anthes Ave.; 360-221-6765. If you want to spend the night, ask them for lodging advice. Google "Langley, Whidbey Island" for a directory of stores, galleries, accommodations and real estate contacts.
* Background -- South Whidbey Historical Museum, 312 Second St. Look for the American Flag outside a white cottage. This is where you can learn that Langley was platted in 1892, and incorporated as a town in 1913. Current population is 1,100. Hours: 1-4 p.m. Saturday and Sunday. 360-221-2101.
* Eating -- Cafe Langley, 113 First St., 360-221-3090, Edgecliff, 510 Cascade Ave., 360-221-8899.
P-I reporter Susan Phinney can be reached at 206-448-8397 or susanphinney@seattlepi.com.
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