Hike of the Week

July 13, 2006

High trails are heavenly

By Karen Sykes

Seattle P-I

Navajo Pass is ideal for that first high-country sojourn when the snow melts out. Even with our early start, the Stafford Creek trailhead was filling up. However, there's more than enough of the sublime Teanaway country to go around and once you leave the trailhead, you won't feel crowded.

The Stafford Creek Trail (No. 1359) is not only popular for its views of the Stuart range but also for wildflowers and variety of terrain, ranging from marshy meadows to serpentine barrens where colorful minerals in the rocks glitter and gaudy flowers glow.

At 6,000 feet, Navajo Pass is a worthy day hike but also serves as a starting point for additional explorations. The Green Trails map hints at several possibilities for those so inclined. Many hikers include a climb of Navajo Peak at 7,223 feet, a non-technical summit accessible to those who don't mind the additional mileage and elevation gain.

The trail starts out lazily as it parallels Stafford Creek with easy ups and downs. There are enough Ponderosa pines to keep the sun at bay and those gentle miles allow time to warm up the muscles without working up too much of a sweat.

The trail is in fairly good condition with only a few blow-downs -- none impassible. Expect a few muddy stretches where the snow has just melted out, but as the summer heat intensifies, the mud will turn to dust. As the trail gains elevation, Ponderosa pine gives way to Douglas fir, many very old. Views of Earl Peak compete with a variety of trees -- Western white pine, lodgepole pine, silver fir, Western hemlock and Englemann spruce.

Our group had split into a faster and a slower group, so we regrouped at four miles, the Standup Creek Trail junction at 5,000 feet. As we took a break, we contemplated the crossing of Standup Creek. Recent trail reports indicated the creek was raging, but the crossing looked manageable (if you don't mind getting your boots wet).

No matter where you are headed, this junction is a good place to fill water bottles, wet your bandana or cool your feet.

By the time you approach the big meadow below the pass, you don't have too much farther to go. The meadow is ringed with campsites, and a final respite in welcome shade is provided by stands of subalpine firs.

The snow had just melted and the meadow was exceedingly fragile. No matter where we stepped, we felt we were damaging plants and grasses, so we crossed as gingerly as possible. There was an enticing lavender shimmer of shooting stars near a bleached snag, but the terrain was too fragile to allow an approach for a photograph.

As we neared the pass, we were fascinated by the jade-colored minerals in the rocks amid vivid displays of purple Douglasia and snow-white bursts of Western anemone.

The pass is at the southeastern boundary of the Alpine Lakes Wilderness and you couldn't get away from a view even if you wanted to. A few trees provided shade, so we lingered, enjoying views of Little Annapurna and McClellan Peak across the gulf of Ingalls Creek.

We considered climbing nearby Navajo Peak at 7,223 feet, but given the heat we decided just to hang out, have a snowball fight and chat with other hikers.

A few of us hiked a fragment of the County Line Trail (No. 1226) toward Earl Peak, drooling over seldom-traveled trails that descend to Ingalls Creek and/or climb to ridges that experienced hikers can run for miles. Here we discovered prime campsites (already taken) and high points along the ridge, each providing better views of the surrounding peaks.

The County Line Trail is hiked seldom enough that parts of it are indistinct and hard to follow, but experienced hikers will find many possibilities, including loops, scrambles and one-way hikes that would involve a car shuttle or car-key exchange. We discussed some of these possibilities as we planned further expeditions over pizza and bottomless pitchers of root beer in Roslyn.

* Getting there -- From Seattle head east on Interstate 90. Bypass Cle Elum unless you want to stop at a popular, local bakery. Take Exit 85 and go east (right) onto state Route 970 (signed Wenatchee). In about seven miles, turn left onto Teanaway River Road. Follow that road about 13 miles to a junction at 29 Pines Campground (where pavement ends) and Forest Service Road 9737. Turn right onto No. 9737, drive about 1.3 miles and turn right on Stafford Creek Road (FSR 9703). Continue about 2.5 miles to the signed trailhead and facilities, elevation 3,100. Road 9703 is in poor condition but can be accessed by passenger cars. A Northwest Forest Pass is required.

* Trail data -- It is 3,000 feet to Navajo Pass, about 11 miles round trip. If you include Navajo Peak, add about three miles round trip, with 1,200 feet of additional gain. The map is Green Trails No. 209 Mount Stuart.

* Information -- For additional information refer to "100 Hikes in Washington's Alpine Lakes" by Ira Spring, Vicky Spring and Harvey Manning (Mountaineers, 252 pages, $16.95) or call the Cle Elum Ranger District for Wenatchee National Forest at 509-852-1100 or visit their Web site at www.fs.fed.us/r6/Wenatchee [1]

Karen Sykes, West Seattle resident and avid hiker, has been traveling Northwest trails for 25 years and is the author of "Hidden Hikes in Western Washington." She can be reached via e-mail at: hikes4ever@hotmail.com.

Seattle Post-Intelligencer

Copyright © 2008 The Seattle Times Company


Article photos

Navajo Pass

Photo: Karen Sykes

The big meadow below the Navajo Pass is ringed with campsites and is a final chance for shade.