Located on a section of East Madison Street that most people simply pass through on their way to Madison Park or up to Capitol Hill, the Bottleneck Lounge [1] is something of a rarity: It's a fancy-pants lounge that could hold its own against the spendy upscale lounges of downtown, while steadfastly maintaining a cozy neighborhood vibe. All the class goes into the glass -- where it belongs.
Try the lounge's "Skirt Chaser," a deliciously tart mix of Absolut Mandarin, Campari, Rose's Lime and soda water. Or the "Dog Noir," a tall cocktail of Meyers Dark Rum, bitters and 7-Up that the drink list -- which, by the way, is illustrated with pictures of adorable dogs and cats -- correctly describes as "sultry" and "decadent." In enjoying them, I remembered a theory held forth by mixologist Paul Harrington: If you see bottles of Blonde Lillet and Maraschino Luxardo behind a bar, it's safe to assume that someone back there knows how to use them. Every drink on the Bottleneck's menu proves him right.
That's only one facet of the Bottleneck's appeal, however. The wine list, while brief (it's only a half-dozen bottles in total), is drawn entirely from the vineyards of South Africa, and is uniformly excellent. (One of the bar's partners hails from that region, and the bar hosts a monthly meet-up for South African expats). The kitchen whips up some simple, but delicious small plates -- panini sandwiches, three-cheese nachos, a hummus platter and one of the best damn grilled cheese sandwiches you've ever had. Such is the latter's crispy, cheesy magnificence that it's listed on the bar's T-shirt along with its equally kick-ass Bloody Mary.
The bar looks every bit as good as it tastes. The light is subdued, most of it provided by a vintage neon Leinenkugel's Beer sign. (This brings up the Bottleneck's only caveat: Despite the prominence of the sign, you can't order up a "Leinie's" here.) The exposed-brick walls are hung with fanciful portraits of friendly dogs, and the coziness of the space naturally encourages camaraderie. The intimate, L-shaped bar puts you in close quarters with both the bartender and the people you're drinking with, and the bar's small tables are made to be pushed together. I can't recall the last time I walked into a bar alone and struck up several conversations almost immediately.
Speaking of the bartenders, I also can't recall the last time I've been served by people as attentive as those at the Bottleneck. They warn you when an ingredient may not agree with you ("This one's got Campari in it; are you up for that?"), and they are generally game to mix up anything you ask for, working from your instructions and within the bounds of sanity.
There's much more to be said for the Bottleneck, but I don't want to oversell it. Excessive hype seems to be the way of things in Seattle nightlife these days. Every new spot has to proclaim itself superior to everything that came before: its furniture more modern; its crowd more moneyed and pretty; its cocktails more expensive, saccharine and ridiculous. The Bottleneck only aspires to be to a warm and convivial spot, and to serve drinks that are worth drinking. Isn't that why bars exist in the first place?
Bottleneck Lounge is at 2323 E. Madison St.; 206-323-1098. Visit the bar online at www.bottlenecklounge.com [2].
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