Downtown Vancouver is kid-friendly getaway

Summer after summer, I try out Pacific Northwest places for family getaways, always searching for the one with the right stuff.

My wish-list includes:

• Easy to get to from Seattle.
• Somewhere for kids to swim.
• A room with a kitchenette so we don't have to eat out every meal. And decent restaurants for when we do..
• A reasonable price.

So far, one of the places I've found that offers all that — and more — is downtown Vancouver, B.C.

In most cities, downtown hotels cater to business travelers or well-heeled couples, and attractions are better suited to older kids and adults. But downtown Vancouver is different. In summer, it's more like a family-friendly resort. Here's what makes it work:

Location, location, location

Downtown Vancouver sits on a mini-peninsula that juts into English Bay. Covering its tip is the 1,000-acre Stanley Park, a giant playground of beaches, forest trails, seafront walking and biking path, swimming areas, aquarium, children's zoo and miniature train.

Adjoining the park is the West End neighborhood, a lively, high-rise residential neighborhood with some family-friendly hotels and lots of good, reasonably priced restaurants along Denman Street, from Japanese restaurants to bagel bakeries.

If you stay in the West End near Denman you can park your car and forget about it since it's easy to walk or bike everywhere you'll need to go. (Just don't leave anything in your parked car, including in hotel garages; there are lots of car break-ins.)

Water fun

Some West End hotels have pools, but the best places to swim are the neighborhood's public pools and beaches — English Bay is warm enough for swimming in summer. Places to go:

• English Bay Beach: This blocklong sandy beach often is crowded (and great for people-watching); it has a swimming area with a diving platform and lifeguards.

• Second Beach (in Stanley Park): Heaven for kids, with a giant outdoor heated pool with mini water slides. The price is right with admission for a family of four under $10. When kids are waterlogged, next to it are a playground, sandy beach and snack stand.

• Vancouver Aquatic Centre: A 10-minute walk east from English Bay Beach, this indoor, city-run complex has a 50-meter-pool, children's pool, diving boards, sauna and more.

Hotels

A two-room hotel suite is the traveling family's best friend. Kids can go to sleep earlier in the bedroom; parents can get some quiet time in the living room.

The West End has a number of apartment buildings converted into hotels that give families elbow room. Family-friendly lodgings include the Coast Plaza hotel (high-rise and pricey in summer peak season, but with spacious suites with kitchens, living room and bedroom). Or book a one-bedroom suite at the Sylvia Hotel (a budget favorite, somewhat worn but with an excellent location on English Bay and often booked months ahead).

At Robson and Denman is Times Square Suites (units with kitchen, fireplace, washer and dryer). Closer to downtown on Robson is the luxurious Pacific Palisades with suites and pleasant pool.

If you don't care about having a kitchen, and price is no object, the Westin Bayshore is a luxury, harborfront hotel adjoining Stanley Park.

Money, money

The Canadian dollar is weak — a U.S. dollar is worth about $1.56 Canadian — which makes Vancouver a deal. And to make your money go even further:

• Rooms can be booked through the provincial tourism office, Tourism British Columbia, at 800-663-6000; ask about any hotel-discount programs. Also contact hotels directly; ask about any special offers and if there are AAA or other discounts.

• You can use American currency at Vancouver stores and restaurants, but the exchange rate won't be great. The best rate and easiest way to get Canadian cash is by using an ATM in Vancouver.

• Canada's 7 percent Goods and Service Tax (GST) on lodging and many goods is refundable to nonresidents. Keep your original receipts and get an on-the-spot refund at duty-free shops on the Canadian side at border crossings. Or get the government form (avoid the private rebate services, which charge a fee) at your hotel and mail in for a rebate.

Getting there

Last, but not least, getting to Vancouver is an easy three-hour drive. You will encounter border delays in summer, especially on busy weekends and with the tighter security since Sept. 11. Try to avoid Friday and Sunday late afternoons, and use an alternate border crossing such as that between Lynden, Wash., and Aldergrove, B.C.

Family events

Family-friendly events coming up in Vancouver include:

• Vancouver International Children's Festival (theater, music, storytelling and more): May 27-June 2.

• Vancouver Folk Music Festival (including children's performers): July 19-21.

• Celebration of Light: Fireworks festival at English Bay: July 31, Aug. 3, 7, 10.

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