Gig Harbor: Fun if by land, cool if by sea

GIG HARBOR, Pierce County - Locals in this cozy waterfront town love to crow about their scenery, and they have plenty to cluck about.

A variety of charming shops, galleries, bistros and New England-style homes line Harborview Drive, a milelong strip of road that almost encircles the harbor. Strolling along the waterfront and gazing out from any of the wooden view decks built along the way makes you instantly reach for your camera. The small harbor, with its colorful armada of sailboats, yachts and fishing vessels set against the magnificent, snowcapped backdrop of Mount Rainier, seems as intimate as a mountain lake.

But the vistas are even more stunning - and more serene - by sea. And renting a boat in this town is surprisingly easy, though there's only one rental outlet, so call a day or two in advance to make reservations, or you can take your chances. The Siderakis family, including mother Karen and son Paul and his wife, runs Gig Harbor Rent-A-Boat out of a moored boat on the docks along Finholm Marketplace.

The family is new to the business and still working out the kinks (our boat sputtered a bit), but they are friendly and make it easy for landlubbers to venture out on the water. (A little too easy, perhaps; see side story.)

They've got about a half-dozen powerboats, a 22-foot sailboat and a handful of kayaks. You can also rent a paddle boat for a fun spin around the harbor.

We rented a 15-foot powerboat and quietly steered it through the maze of moored yachts. The harbor rule is "no wake," which translates to painfully slow. The boats come with an easy-to-follow map of the nearby islands and points of interest, and on a clear day my companion and I found the narrow waterways easy to navigate.

As we rounded the "lighthouse at the spit," as locals refer to the sandy point at the harbor entrance, Point Defiance came into full view with Rainier towering in the background. We steered right into the Narrows, the slender waterway between the Kitsap Peninsula and the mainland. Before long, we breezed under the Tacoma Narrows Bridge; we were 188 feet below but a world away from the zooming weekend traffic.

We had to prime our small Yamaha outboard engine a few times to keep it running. On the bright side, during one of our stalls we spotted a seal splashing in and out of the waves near the boat.

Of course there's no need to take to the water to soak in the magnificent scenery. The lighthouse offers great views. To get there, follow Harborview Drive away from downtown, past Finholm Marketplace until it ends at Goodman Drive. Turn right and park at the end of the road, where you'll find a wooden staircase.

Don't worry, the steps look like they belong to someone's back yard, but they are a public access to the beach below. Take another right at the beach and follow it to the lighthouse.

Another favorite viewpoint for locals is the old ferry landing at the other end of Harborview Drive, near Tides Tavern, another local favorite for food, drink and offbeat conversation.

REMEMBER WATER SAFETY

The ease of renting and the casual manner of some boat-rental outfits can belie the dangers of boating. Think safety. Make sure everyone on board wears properly fitted life jackets, and watch for other boats. Traffic in the harbor and in Puget Sound, particularly near the narrow mouth of the harbor, often gets congested. Carry a cell phone if your boat is not equipped with a marine radio; if you rely on a radio, know how to use it.

Gig Harbor Rent-A-Boat offers boat rentals from two to eight hours. For two hours, the prices run from $60 for a 15-foot sportboat to $140 for an 18-foot bow runner. The prices are subject to change, and right now the proprietors don't take credit cards. (There's a handy ATM across the street at Finholm Marketplace.)

Kayaks rent for $10 for one hour, $16 for two hours or $40 for eight hours. Currents outside the harbor, especially in the aptly named Narrows, can be treacherous; only experienced kayakers should venture into the Sound. People who would prefer guided kayak tours or classes should call the Gig Harbor Kayak Center.

Gig Harbor Rent-A-Boat: 8829 N. Harborview Drive, Gig Harbor. Phone: 253-858-7341. Reservations recommended at least a day or two in advance.

Gig Harbor Kayak Center: 8809 N. Harborview Drive, Gig Harbor. Phone: 253-851-7987. Reservations required for tours and classes.

MARITIME FEST THIS WEEKEND

Scenery of a different sort will be on display this weekend as the town hosts its annual Maritime Gig Festival. Events include a Leaky Teeky Boat Parade, a sailboat regatta, a battle of the bands, arts and crafts, a salmon bake and the Blessing of the Fleet, a religious ritual carried over from the town's historic fishing-village roots (it's still home port to an active commercial fleet).

The festival, which runs Friday through Sunday, drew about 15,000 people last year.

For more information, see the Web sites www.maritimegig.comor www.gigharborchamber.com or call 253-851-6865.

GETTING THERE

From Seattle, take Interstate 5 south to Exit 132 (Gig Harbor/Bremerton) and follow Highway 16 west across the Tacoma Narrows Bridge. Take the Gig Harbor/City Center exit, turn right onto Pioneer Way, and follow to the bottom of the hill to Harborview Drive.

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