Expanse of dunes is a treasure to enjoy

FLORENCE, Ore. -- On Oct. 29, Oregon scientists, politicians and educators will gather in Florence to discuss something near and dear to their hearts -- the Oregon Coast. Not surprising, folks on the Central Coast want to learn more about how to save and maintain some of this state's most valuable assets -- its shoreline and ocean environment.

Just 60 miles east of Eugene, on the Pacific Coast Scenic Byway Highway 101, Florence is the second-most-populated area in Lane County, with a population of just over 7,000, in a county of more than 20,000. The shoreline in the region is some of the most spectacular and most photographed of the entire Oregon Coast.

Scenic wayside stops for tourists along Highway 101 are frequent. Photographs of that part of the Oregon Coast have blessed thousands of postcards over the years because of its geologic variety, ever-changing climate and massive acreage of sand dunes.

The coast's beauty at Florence is a huge tourist draw. Lately, however, the relatively small community has become a popular draw for retirees from all over the Pacific Northwest as well. One-third of the city's population is retirees. Gated retirement communities and condominium developments have sprung up all over -- most built as close to the ocean as possible. The main commercial centers along Highway 101 have expanded to include fast-food restaurants and major shopping outlets to meet the increasing demand.

Florence also butts against the Oregon Dunes National Recreation Area just to the south, where all-terrain vehicle (ATV) and off-highway vehicle (OHV) enthusiasts share the natural wonder of the ever-shifting mountains of sand with sightseers and tourists.

JEFF LARSEN / P-I

A fishing boat cuts through the fog on the Siuslaw River east of Florence. Fishermen from all over Oregon flock to the river this time of year to try to catch large chinook salmon.

Steve and Tanna White had traveled from Auburn, Wash., just to ride their matching ATVs up and over the monster dunes that stretch for 42 miles south of Florence. The couple told me they were camped at a private recreational vehicle resort near Woahink Lake, about three miles south of Florence, which offered a paved trail directly to the dunes reserved for off-road machines.

They drove here from Auburn because of the special size and acreage of sand dunes as well as the facilities that cater especially to ATVs -- special features, they said, that aren't available at very many locations in Washington state. ATV rentals also are available in Florence.

I reached the coast -- after a short stay in Eugene -- along scenic state Route 126 that winds toward the ocean from the Willamette Valley through the low coastal range. Just west of the range, the road parallels the Siuslaw River all the way to Florence where the river broadens as it meets the Pacific.

Late-morning fog hung like a cloak over the placid river just two miles east of Florence. Fifty or 60 small fishing boats looked like toys bobbing around in the dense fog. Fishermen this time of year from all over Oregon flock to the river to try to catch large chinook salmon.

JEFF LARSEN / P-I

A very fast ATV does a wheelie while climbing a hill of sand at the Oregon Dunes National Recreation Area.

Longtime Siuslaw Marina owner Kirby Hansen told me that on the weekends during Chinook fishing season "you can walk across the river on the boats from my place." However, Hansen was a little surprised to see so many boats on the river during the middle of the week. I noticed that most of the campgrounds along the river (and some wide parts in the road) were jammed with motor homes, campers and boat trailers.

Besides the Oregon Dunes National Recreation Area, some of the spectacular scenic wonders on the coast near Florence are practically legendary. The Sea Lion Caves, for 70 years a private operation just north of Florence, offers sightseers a tour 208 feet down a shaft into the bowels of a large cavern carved by thousands of years of wave action. Sea Lions often frolic in the surf in and outside the cave, to the delight of the visitors. If you're lucky, the best time for a real thrill is to make the descent into the cave during a raging Pacific Ocean storm.

Thirteen miles north of Florence, tourists can take a short hike -- part of a 7-mile-long network of trails -- from the beach parking and picnic area at Cape Creek to the Heceta Head Lighthouse State Scenic viewpoint, 205 feet above the ocean. Considered the most photographed lighthouse on the coast, it boasts an automated light that can be seen 21 miles out to sea. The light was first illuminated in 1894, of course without the intensity of today's modern lighting device. Lighthouse tours are offered mainly during the summer months.

JEFF LARSEN / P-I

A surf kayaker rips through a wave near the Heceta Head Lighthouse just north of Florence.

Proving that functionality also can be beautiful, the 149-foot-long Siuslaw River Bridge, completed in 1936, connected Florence to Highway 101 for the first time. The historically significant bridge, designed by legendary bridge builder Conde McCullough, is one of his finest drawbridge accomplishments, complete with art-deco touches on the four guardhouses.

McCullough managed the difficult structural and geologic challenges of bridge design in the region with the grace of a true artist. During the 1930s, he designed eight bridges on Highway 101, from Tillamook in the north to the Rogue River in the south, all of which are still standing.

Not as legendary, but spectacular nonetheless, are the north and south jetties that jut a half-mile into the ocean on both sides of the Siuslaw River's ocean entrance at Florence. In 1985, $33 million was spent to extend the rock jetties to enhance Siuslaw River navigation by larger ships. Rhododendron Drive from downtown Florence leads to the north jetty and its adjacent windblown sandy beaches.

The jetty and beaches are perfect for a long walk or a good vantage point to get a close look at the power of the ocean and how man continues to try to control its ferocity with jetties. The south jetty road is just south of the Siuslaw bridge and leads to a public pier, where I found a couple of vacationing firefighters from Idaho crab fishing.

JEFF LARSEN / P-I

A tourist gets a good picture of the grandeur of the Oregon coast from the Bob Creek Wayside north of Florence.

Tourists find it hard to resist Historic Old Town Florence on the banks of the Siuslaw River just below the bridge. It's a great spot to relax for a while from the rigors of driving and just enjoy the scenery, browse the antique and gift shops, taste a little wine, have lunch or just stroll along the river walk with a cup of coffee or an ice cream cone.

It's important to remember that the Oregon Coast climate is temperamental, especially on the Central Coast. The average low temperature during the winter is 37 degrees and the average high during the summer is 69. Annual rainfall tops 76 inches.

One retiree out for a walk on the north jetty while I was there a couple of weeks ago, in a chilly 29-mph wind, complained that the weather the entire summer had been awful -- windy and foggy mostly. He said he and his wife had decided to move back to more predictable weather in Arlington north of Everett, and also to be closer to their grandchildren.

When I left Florence late in the afternoon to drive back to Eugene, the temperature was 52 degrees with winds gusting to 29 mph and beyond. About 40 miles east and 45 minutes later, the temperature hit a humid 87 degrees without a breath of wind -- from parka to short sleeves.

Dress accordingly.

If you go

• Florence Chamber of Commerce -- 290 Highway 101; 800-524-4864; www.florencechamber.com

• Oregon Coast Visitors Association -- 137 N.E. First St., Newport; 800-628-210; www.visittheoregoncoast.com

• Sea Lion Caves -- 91560 Highway 101, Florence; 541-547-3111. Hours: Opens at 9 a.m. daily. Admission: $8, $4.50 for ages 6-15, free for 5 and under. www.sealioncaves.com

• Heceta Head Lighthouse -- www.oregonstateparks.org/park_124.php

• Oregon Dunes National Recreation Area -- Siuslaw National Forest; 541-750-7000; www.fs.fed.us/r6/siuslaw/

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