Portland's lack of a sales tax is great -- and so are the shops

Oregon's lack of a sales tax is alluring, but that's not what draws Washingtonians over the border.

"Portland is organized so well. The city's designed in a sensitive way. It's less of a hassle to go to different shopping areas," says Seattle textile designer Janell deVarona.

She views Portland as "more casual, unpretentious. People don't size you up when you walk in," deVarona says. Her shopping takes her between the Pearl District, favorite downtown stores and Northwest 23rd Avenue — three easy-to-access adjoining areas that can be explored in a day or two.

Like many Portland visitors, deVarona usually makes a stop at Saks Fifth Avenue, a branch of the New York store that has courted but eluded Seattle for the past 20 years. The store has exclusive lines and labels not available here. It also has a separate store dedicated to menswear just across the street.

Powell's Books Inc., is another reason to go to Portland. Marketing consultant Zia Gipson and her husband, Richard Davis, visit the city three or four times a year — beginning and ending each trip at Powell's. "They take books to sell, and in the store new and used books sit side by side. An incredible choice," Gipson says. "You can pay $6 or $16 for the same book, for example."

For Mary Neuschwanger, co-owner of Packaging Specialties, a trip to Portland means a chance for her and her husband, Kip, to shop at Mario's — a Portland store with a Seattle branch. "There's never time to shop together in Seattle," she explains.

But when she talks Portland, Neuschwanger talks "The Pearl." It is footsteps away from the downtown shopping core but, until recently, it wasn't a place to go, let alone go shopping.

Like irritants in rough shells that become pearls, old buildings and new have become sought-after apartments/lofts/townhouses that sell in the $500,000, or higher, range.

Neuschwanger has been shopping Portland for about 10 years. She's amassed a list of favorite places outside the downtown shopping core. Many are in the Pearl, several are on 23rd Avenue. "The Pearl is a sophisticated, urban neighborhood. Twenty-third is young, hip, energetic," she says.

Shopping the Pearl

One of her favorites is Oblation Papers & Press, 516 N.W. 12th Ave. For those who haven't fallen into the e-mail pit, this is a store where you could spend hours selecting fine papers for writing or wrapping. They not only make paper on the premises, they have old-fashioned printing presses that you can watch while invitations are engraved. Papers from around the world, fountain pens (domestic and European), cards, journals and truly unusual photo albums are part of the fun.

Aubergine, 1100 N.W. Glisan St., features German, French, Italian and some U.S. clothing for women in sizes 4 to 14. A black sheath dress in faux Persian lamb is stunning. So is a draped and zippered sweater by Rundholz of Germany. This is a unique store for sophisticated shoppers. And you don't have to be a size 2 to appreciate it.

Lux Lighting, 1109 N.W. Glisan St., is the place to head for very contemporary lighting and accessories From Isamo Noguchi paper lamps to a Philippe Stark-designed radio. Don't miss the mirrors and towel racks.

Desperado, 428 N.W. 11th Ave. "We call it boutique western," says manager Karen Crawford. Looking for cocktail glasses with leather-wrapped bases? They're here along with pillow cases, flannel pajamas, even evening bags with western motifs. Some of this western wear is more like wearable art. Some is simply kitchy. But what urban cowgirl could resist a blue chenille bathrobe with a chenille horse on the back, for example.

Bernadette Breu, 1134 N.W. Everett St., is an experience! Furniture, vintage jewelry, home accessories, and all sorts of surprises are housed here. From racks of antlers to 1950s alligator handbags and old engineering and drafting tools, there's much to explore. Drawers full of odd game pieces tempt jewelry makers. Drawers of old black-and-white photographs inspire artists and designers. Go!

O/X Orchid Exchange, 404 N.W. 12th Ave., is like entering a Hawaiian garden. Dozens of different orchids bloom here. Purchase one, return it after blooming, and get 25 percent off your next orchid. Now this is urban-friendly retailing.

P.H. Reed Furniture, 1100 N.W. Glisan St., specializes in contemporary furniture scaled for smaller spaces. The second store, just across the street, features bedroom pieces.

Coco Kimono, 402 N.W. 12th Ave., may be Asian influenced, but it has old and new furnishings from Asia and Italy.

Bellona by Night, 1129 N.W. Flanders, St., has lingerie from France, Italy and Canada.

Gari, 318 N.W. 11th Ave., is both jewelry store/art gallery. The knitted wire pieces by Portland artist Nicky Falkenhayn are not to be missed.

dieci soli, 304 N.W. 11th Ave., has French and Italian pottery, tablecloths.

Relish, 433 N.W. 10th Ave., is a source for unusual jewelry. Edgy pieces in steel, gold, acrylic from artists in London, Japan, Australia, Switzerland and Portland are featured.

Heading west

Between the Pearl and 23rd Avenue, you'll find Urban Wine Works — a winery, tasting room, shop and art gallery at 407 N.W. 16th Ave. Every month it features a new artist and is part of the city's "First Thursday Art Tour." Visitors can sample wines from Oregon vineyards, or blend their own favorites after barrel-tasting. Some cheeses and crackers are for sale but visitors are welcome to bring their own food while sampling and selecting.

If Portland's Pearl resembles Seattle's Belltown, Portland's 23rd Avenue is somewhere between Capitol Hill and Fremont. Here are some shopping experiences:

Urbino, 638 N.W. 23rd Ave, was all glitter and tassels by mid-November. This home accessory store has some furniture, a huge assortments of scented candles and soaps. All are displayed in and on a collection of antiques.

Zelda's Shoe Bar, 633 N.W. 23rd Ave, has shoes you don't find everywhere —a camouflage-print boot that laces up the back, for example, or athletic shoes in wild prints.

3 Monkeys, 803 N.W. 23rd Ave., can be dazzling and overwhelming. But where else can you find "I Love Lucy" lunch pails, a Boyfriend Training Kit that comes in a plain brown wrapper, or pieces of sushi that wind up and move. There is an Archie McPhee look here, but a unique assortment of goods. A few doors down, at 817, you'll find 3 More Monkeys and a store full of apparel, old luggage and tiaras.

Downtown Portland

For those who can't visit a city without a mall experience, Portland's Pioneer Place, 700 S.W. Fifth Ave., at Morrison Street, is a hub of activity, but almost every store is part of a chain that also has outlets in Seattle.

Present Perfect on the mall's fourth level is an original. This is sticker/greeting card/gift bag/tag and paper party goods heaven. A gift box shaped like a house would make a fabulous toy all by itself. The store also has an assortment of small gifts — candles and picture frames, for example.

Saks Fifth Avenue, 850 S.W. Fifth Ave., has two floors of women's apparel, shoes, accessories and cosmetics. The lingerie department is highly recommended. The Saks men's store is across the street at Fourth and Yamhill streets. This is where to find labels from Jhane Barnes and Michael Kors to Gucci and Prada. There are elegant briefcases and bags for men and several lines of skin-care products.

Jane's Vanity, 521 S.W. Broadway, has lingerie from France and Italy that owner Jane Adams orders straight from Europe. A deep brown lace bra is embroidered in violet and moss green. At least one corset is so pretty it could be worn as a top peeking from under a suit jacket. Expect to succumb to at least one of the silk night gowns. They're cut to flatter.

U.S. Outdoor Store, 219 S.W. Broadway, specializes in high-tech outdoor gear. Locally owned and operated since 1952, this store has options galore. Dozens of styles of glasses, goggles, gloves, Nixon watches, North Face and other high-tech apparel is available for all ages. If you want the latest high-tech jacket, they'll not only have it, they'll probably have it in your size.

Lit, 214 S.W. Eighth Ave., is just around the corner from the Outdoor Store, but it's a fashion world away. With labels like "Punk Royal" from Denmark, mini skirts with frayed hems, and silk chiffon dresses in day-glow orange/white, these are clothes with attitude.

Mercantile, 735 S.W. Park Ave., is another family-owned store. From Tse cashmeres to Eileen Fisher and Nanette Lepore, this store is geared to professional women. The coat and cocktail dress selections are noteworthy. "We're blue jeans to black tie," quips store executive and family member Marc Murfitt.

Josephine's Dry Goods, 521 S.W. 11th Ave., has hard- to-find fabrics: silks and laces for wedding gowns, printed velveteens, beaded chiffons and the kinds of cotton knit jerseys famous designers use for casual dresses and tops. The location may be a bit of a walk, but it's worth it.

The Real Mother Goose, 902 S.W. Yamhill St., is home to hand-crafted furniture, metal wine storage racks that are works of art, hand-made jewelry, blown glass, pottery and every other form of craft. All are created by Pacific Northwest artisans. It's a one-stop gallery/store to sample the region's craft scene.

PARKING IN PORTLAND

Getting to the Pearl from Seattle is easy. Finding parking is not, especially on weekends and holidays. As you drive around searching for a spot, you'll understand why so many people like the local street car system.