Makah Tribe's trail eases access to a wild stretch of coastline

NEAH BAY -- As you look out at Tatoosh Island from the tip of Cape Flattery, all of the continental United States lies behind you. Gulls glide past on the breeze, and the waves foaming the rocks far below heighten the illusion that you're sailing into the gray sea.

From this northwesternmost point in the lower 48 you can lean into the wind and imagine you're on the prow of the nation, crashing westward into the Pacific.

You're at the end of one of two trails to the most scenic locations in this remote corner of the state, paths built over the past several years by the Makah Indian Nation to attract tourists.

The Cape Flattery Trail opened in 1997. More recently, the Makahs opened a new trail to one of the most wild and magnificent ocean beaches in the world. Several miles south of Cape Flattery is the legendary beauty of Shi Shi Beach (a Makah word pronounced "shy-shy").

Late this past summer, the tribe formally opened the trail to Shi Shi. Though the beach is part of the designated wilderness within Olympic National Park, the access trail is on tribal land.

The new trail has been a long time coming. Since 1997, the Makah Tribe has tried to pull together funding, organize trail crews and sort out details of property rights to finally open a route to the beach.

For many years a trail existed, but it was closed to the public in the early 1990s because of liability concerns. That didn't deter hordes of hikers, campers and surfers from illicitly making the 3-mile trek to the beach. Officially, you could approach only from the park's Lake Ozette trailhead 13 miles to the south.

According to Alice Langebartel, the tribe's coordinator for the trail project, several property owners with land adjacent to the trail resisted opening it to the public. So the tribe chose to reroute the first mile of trail around the private holdings.

After a recent visit to the blustery, 1-mile Cape Flattery Trail, I set out to hike the new Shi Shi Trail.

Winding through thick forest and a clearcut, much of the new trail is wooden boardwalk that smells of freshly cut cedar. An elaborate cantilevered wooden bridge and more boardwalks span several creeks, and the gravel sections seem to have weathered the recent autumn rainstorms well.

Not long after winding through the woods, the trail returns to its former route -- two miles of old road that's a mucky soup of mud for most of the year.

JOSHUA TRUJILLO / P-I

Thar she blows? Alayna Riis, left, from South Dakota, Laura Caplins, center, of Maryland, and Julie Hwang from New Jersey search for a whale that was reported off Shi Shi Beach.

"You practically need knee boots for that part," says Langebartel, who adds that the 1-mile reroute cost $217,000 and was funded by grants from the U.S. Forest Service and the state Department of Natural Resources. The tribe hopes to secure more funding next year to improve the final two miles.

The route makes its way through lovely stands of alder and Sitka spruce. At three miles, several viewpoints offer tantalizing glimpses of the beach below. Shortly after, a sign announces the entrance to Olympic National Park.

There has been little coordination between the National Park Service and the Makah Tribe regarding the trail. That's partly because the two land management agencies have different goals in mind for Shi Shi: The Makahs want to encourage visitors, while the Park Service wants to preserve the solitary character of the wilderness.

The tribe has begun requiring a $7 annual pass for all recreation on tribal lands, including hiking. After the widely publicized trail opening, hikers have been flocking to the area. In August and September, the tribe sold more than 2,000 passes.

Meanwhile, the Park Service is entrusted with maintaining the natural character of Shi Shi.

According to park spokeswoman Barb Maynes, there were more than 190 campers at Shi Shi Beach during the Labor Day weekend. Maynes won't say if the park plans to adopt a quota and reservation system for backcountry camping, as it has for Cape Alava, a popular wilderness beach farther south. According to Maynes, the park is "going to take a close look at use patterns."

JOSHUA TRUJILLO / P-I

Hikers follow the Cape Trail to Cape Flattery near Neah Bay. The scenic trial to the westernmost point of the lower 48 states opened in 1997.

If that wasn't enough, the Travel Channel recently selected Shi Shi as one of America's 10 best beaches.

But on a relatively sunny and breezy November afternoon, there were no crowds. Just three miles of solitary gray-sand beach, high piles of driftwood and the constant growl of surf. In the distance to the south loomed the jumbled small islands and crags of Point of the Arches.

Shi Shi isn't about sunbathing or swimming (unless you're one of the hardy surfers who come here in late fall armed with full wetsuits). Instead, it's the clear air, gorgeous scenery and wildlife that beckon.

"This area has some of the largest numbers of migratory pelagic birds anywhere," says Laurie Skillman, a birder visiting from Ashland, Ore. She and three friends were on a 10-day trip in search of birds and wildlife.

"It's nice after all the people have gone," says Jack Manning, visiting from Port Ludlow. "We saw seven new birds yesterday, including a long-tailed duck in its winter plumage. It was just magnificent."

Birds aren't the only curious creatures here. As I walked the squeaking sands, a pair of seals eyed me from the waves.

The beach proved to be a beachcomber's dream. At my feet I spotted tiny pink whelk seashells, stones that looked like Swiss cheese (with holes bored by piddock clams), translucent agates smoothed by the constant waves, and a perfectly preserved sea urchin shell.

Also on the beach: numerous soap bottles, an airplane wheel, black plastic net floats, assorted buckets and a hard hat. Every year, tons of trash wash ashore from the shipping lanes and fishing grounds of the Pacific. Each May, a group of volunteers comes to the Olympic Coast to pick up the trash. But every year, like the tide, the junk returns.

JOSHUA TRUJILLO / P-I

A pair of hardy surfers search for a good place to catch a wave at Shi Shi Beach. Toting a board three miles to the surf from the Makah Reservation sure beats the alternative: a 13-mile hike from Ozette Lake.

Still, it's a huge beach, and an occasional bit of trash doesn't mar the experience of Shi Shi, the northernmost reach of the park's 75-mile wilderness coast. That means this beach is free of roads, motels, tacky gift shops and development of any kind.

A place where you can see deer walking the beach.

Or, about a hundred yards out to sea, just beyond the breakers, the telltale spout of a whale.

I watched for a while, observing what appeared to be two medium-size whales. I'm no expert, but they could possibly be some of the resident grays that frequent this coastline.

At Petroleum Creek further south, I encountered a group of about a dozen people camping on a weeklong trip with the National Outdoor Leadership School.

After I mentioned seeing the whales, the group went wild, pulling out binoculars and leaping onto the driftwood.

"Avast! We saw a whale!" cries trip leader Duane Mortenson, belting out his best rendition of a sea chantey. Mortenson leads trips for the school based in Conway. Nearing the end of this weeklong trip, the group had spotted sea otters, sea lions and bald eagles -- but until then, no whales.

According to Mortenson, the week on the beach was part of a 2 1/2-month leadership training course that included time in the North Cascades, at Smith Rocks in Oregon, and -- after the Olympic Coast -- Desolation Sound in British Columbia. The students, generally in their 20s, were responsible for cooking meals, reading the tide charts and giving brief lectures on topics such as the pros and cons of logging.

"It's a great time to be out here," says Mortenson, a stocky and energetic team leader with a scraggly beard. "Even when it rains, you can tuck your camp back under the trees and be protected from the rain and wind."

JOSHUA TRUJILLO / P-I

A hiker crosses a cantilevered bridge on the milelong section of new trail formally opened by the Makah Tribe late last summer. Shi Shi Beach is in Olympic National Park, but access from the north is gained through tribal land.

Remarkably, there was no rain in sight as we made it to Point of the Arches. Then it was time to turn back for the trailhead. Near the north end of Shi Shi, two surfers were getting out of the water. All this balmy weather was bad for surfing, they informed us. Apparently, surfers like low clouds, drizzle and storms far out in the Pacific.

Seems there's something for everyone, even in bad weather, here in the farthest northwest corner of the lower 48.

If you go

* Getting there
-- Cape Flattery Trail: From Port Angeles, take state Route 112 west to Neah Bay (recent washouts on Route 112 have been repaired and the road is open). Follow the signs to Cape Flattery through town. Follow the paved road for 2 1/2 miles to the Makah Tribal Center. Follow the road past the center to a gravel road and continue four miles. A short spur from the left leads to the Cape Flattery Trail.

-- Shi Shi Trail: Follow the same road out of Neah Bay. Before reaching the tribal center, take a left over a bridge toward Hobuck Beach. Follow the road for approximately four miles past the fish hatchery and the blue-gated old trailhead. The new trailhead, just beyond, is clearly marked. The parking lot is for day-use only. Overnighters can park for $10 a night at the home of Donna Wilkie about 1/4 mile back toward Neah Bay; longer stays are discounted. Information: 360-645-2554.

* Permits/passes: A $7 annual pass is required for recreation on Makah tribal land. Passes can be purchased at most businesses in Neah Bay. Overnight campers at Shi Shi are required to have two permits from the National Park Service: a $5 per party backcountry permit and a $2 per night, per person, camping fee. The permits can be purchased at the Wilderness Information Center and Visitor Center in Port Angeles, 360-565-3130, or the Olympic National Park Information Center in Forks, 360-374-7566.

* Maps, charts: A map and tide chart are essential; consult Custom Correct's North Olympic Coast map or Green Trails Cape Flattery No. 98S. Evergreen Pacific in Shoreline publishes a pocket tide guide. Call 206-368-8157 or visit www.evergreenpacific.com. (The 2004 tide guide came out this week.)

* Regulations: At Shi Shi Beach, wilderness regulations apply: no dogs, guns or hunting, and all trash must be packed out.

* Accommodations: In Neah Bay, try the low-frills Cape Motel and RV Park, 360-645-2250. Motels also are available in Sekiu, 17 miles east.

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