La Conner's charm is always in bloom

La Conner is all about love. It started with the love of a husband, John Conner, who named the Skagit Valley town for his wife, Louisa Ann Conner.

Today, it continues with the love of its 780 or so residents for their town's historical and geographical charms. La Conner honors its past, through archival photos, preserved buildings and museums, just as it fosters its present and future, with public art, cultural events, and creative shops and boutiques.

Just 11 miles from Interstate 5, La Conner feels a world away. Nestled along the Swinomish Channel just north of Skagit Bay, La Conner is directly across from Fidalgo Island and the Swinomish Indian Reservation.

La Conner loves visitors. It offers free parking, and two public restrooms within walking distance of each other.

La Conner is perfect for days of lazy strolling while licking an ice cream cone, or basking in the sun on one of its public benches or browsing through its many shops.

With so much from the past to treasure and new additions to admire, my day trip to La Conner surveyed some of the old and the new.

MERYL SCHENKER / P-I

Visitors to LaConner, such as Bud McCurry and his son James, 3, of Camano Island, can walk through public art from a dock back to the parking lot on the Fish Bridge built by Ries Niemi. There are fishy facts written on the bridge timbers.

As I strolled down First Avenue, La Conner's main north-south drag, I peeked into the Volunteer Fireman's Museum. You can't actually go inside -- it's a window experience -- but there are two delightful, 1850s horse-drawn fire wagons, one with canvas sacks for carrying water.

Continuing south, I stopped at Maple Hall, at the corner of Commercial and First, where a plaque explains the town's origins and shows wonderful photos of its early days. In 1869, John S. Conner bought the Swinomish Trading Post there and later incorporated the town in the 1880s.

Maple Hall, an events center, has a little square with a modern totem pole and a "Spirit Wheel" carving.

A block to the west, at the corner of Second Avenue, Magnus Anderson's 1869 split-log cabin is a testament to pioneer days. Originally built along the Skagit River, it was moved to La Conner in the '50s.

Second Avenue often is bypassed by visitors, who tend to stick to the shops and eateries along First. But, it's well worth the walk. The La Conner Quilt Museum is housed in a Victorian mansion built in 1891, with classic Queen Anne-style porch, turret and patterned shingles.

Just across the street, the La Conner Civic Garden Club has created a sweet public butterfly garden with statues, plantings and a semi-circular bench. I wasn't lucky enough to see any butterflies, but it's a lovely quiet spot.

MERYL SCHENKER / P-I

The La Conner Quilt Museum is housed in a Victorian mansion built in 1891, with a classic Queen Anne-style porch, turret and patterned shingles.

Sticking with my old-and-new theme, I lunched at The Dulce Plate, a Mediterranean restaurant that opened in October and emphasizes Spanish and French entrees. The day I visited, six different paellas were offered.

I tried the chicken with chipotle-espresso sauce ($11.95) -- mainly because I'd never seen such a combination. I enjoyed the spicy sauce, which went well with saffron rice and steamed vegetables. Wines by the glass are all a reasonable $4 or $5.

Another new eatery in town is the casually elegant Seeds, a Bistro & Bar, part of a new commercial development from the former home of the historic Tillinghast Seed Co. The complex includes a charming children's and gift boutique called Bunnies By the Bay, the Rain Shadow Studio art gallery, and Something Blue, an upscale bridal boutique.

Following lunch, I strolled across the street to Morris Street Antiques, where I spent $6 on an old fruit-crate label, circa 1940, with Mount Rainier looming in the background. Filled with a wide selection of antiques from multiple dealers, Morris Street has everything from farm equipment to nautical gear to furniture. I loved the selection of antique baby clothes and christening gowns, made of the softest cottons and linens, in the second-floor store.

Nasty Jack's Antiques emphasizes furniture, but I was particularly taken with the wonderful selection of English hall stands, sort of a combined coat and umbrella rack. Though they're increasingly appreciated in the area, it's rare to see so many -- about a dozen -- at one store.

MERYL SCHENKER / P-I

A view of LaConner from the Rainbow Bridge is topped off with a look at Mount Baker.

Just across First Street, Market Place Antiques is going out of business and everything is for sale. It will be replaced by several shops and some condos

Next door, La Conner Fruit and Produce is being built, with plans to open around April 1.

Done antiquing, I headed into the Museum of Northwest Art, or MONA as it's known to some. Devoted to Northwest art, the museum has exhibitions that change every few months. Its store features the works of locals.

Among the current exhibitions is "Northwest Matriarchs of Modernism," which includes works of Margaret Tomkins, Viola Patterson and Doris Totten Chase. The collection of paintings, collage, sculpture, prints and video, from the 1940s through 1970s, continues through April 3.

"From Chaos to Balance," which shows the elegant, restrained glassworks of Steve Klein, also runs through April 3.

A great way to experience La Conner's outdoor art is to pick up a copy of the town's walking tour guide to 20 sculptures, all of which are for sale. The guide is available at the Chamber of Commerce, participating merchants and boxes next to each sculpture.

MERYL SCHENKER / P-I

Locals Jen Hart and Tessa McLeod have a coffee and enjoy the sunshine at Cafe Culture, in a building constructed in 1890.

A visit to the Snohomish County Historical Museum on a weekday afternoon was a solitary affair -- I was the only patron in the place. But I thoroughly enjoyed looking at old farming tools, the parlors of local farmhouses and an exhibit of women's clothes through the decades. Surprisingly, for a history museum, its store has some boutiquey items, including beautiful scarves for $30 to $40.

Hankering for an afternoon snack, I came upon La Conner's only Mexican restaurant, Bee Bee's Mexican Cafe, which is less than a year old. The side order of quesadilla with pork carnitas ($4) was enough for a meal and came with a trip to the extensive salsa and condiment bar. If things are slow, the very friendly Valenzuela family is likely to offer you a taste of something fresh and delicious. For me, it was bread pudding and house-made tortilla chips.

My last stop was to be the Quilt Museum. Sadly, I got there just a few minutes after closing.

Oh well.

Another day, another trip.

Bee Bee's Mexican Cafe -- 214 S. Maple Ave.; 360-466-3332

La Conner Chamber of Commerce -- 606 Morris St.; 360-466-4778 or 888-642-9284; www.laconner.net/chamber.cfm

La Conner Quilt Museum -- 703 S. Second St.; 360-466-4288; www.laconnerquilts.com Hours: Wednesday-Saturday 11 a.m.-4 p.m.; Sunday noon-4 p.m. Admission: $4, free for members and children under 12

Morris Street Antiques -- 503 Morris St.; 360-466-4212; www.morrisstreetantiques.com

Museum of Northwest Art -- 121 S. First St.; 360-466-4446; www.museumofnwart.org Admission: $5, $4 seniors, $2 student and youth, free for under 12. First Tuesdays free

Nasty Jack's Antiques -- 103 E. Morris St.; 360-466-3209; www.nastyjacksantiques.com

Skagit County Historical Museum -- 501 Fourth St.; 360-466-3365; www.skagitcounty.net/museum Hours: Tuesday-Sunday 11 a.m.-5 p.m. Admission: $4, $3 seniors and children 6-12, $8 families, free for 5 and under

The Dulce Plate -- 508 E. Morris St.; 360-466-1630; e-mail: thedulceplate@aol.com

Seeds, A Bistro & Bar -- 623 Morris St.; 360-466-3280. Hours: Sunday-Thursday 11 a.m.-9 p.m., Friday-Saturday 11-10

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