Scenery and history unite in Olympia

Capitol Lake and Tumwater Falls get our vote as the most scenic parks within the city limits of Olympia. Both offer impressive scenery and historical points of interest, including the old Olympia Brewing Co., established in the early 1900s. You can visit both parks in a day and enjoy a variety of scenes, ranging from segmented Tumwater Falls to the quiet waters of Capitol Lake with the state capitol rising above.

We began from the main entrance of Capitol Lake Park (also known as Tumwater Historical Park) and walked down to the Deschutes River, where it flows through the park and enters wetlands. From the river bank there is a good view of the old brewery on the other side of the river below Tumwater Falls, but this is merely a preview of more to come.

At the river we found an assortment of waterfowl dominated by noisy mallards, and one particularly colorful bird we couldn't identify even with field guides. We heard later it probably was some kind of domestic goose.

After hiking a short loop through a marsh, we turned left on the main path as it comes out onto Deschutes Parkway and continues north as mostly paved trail along the shoreline of Capitol Lake. It was a sunny day and there were many walkers and joggers enjoying the path.

You can continue along Deschutes Parkway to Percival Landing by following the paved path, but we crossed the lake on a bridge at Marathon Park and continued on the other side of the lake to make a loop. Frankly, it is challenging to tell where one park ends and another begins. There are parks within parks, like Chinese boxes. At Percival Landing, we enjoyed colorful views of boats, marinas and the Olympic Mountains.

We walked back to the main entrance of the park, then drove a short distance to Tumwater Falls Park for better views of the falls. From the main entrance of Tumwater Falls Park, a path leads downriver to Upper Tumwater Falls -- these falls are partially man-made.

Our timing couldn't have been better. It was just a couple of days after heavy rains, so the mocha-colored falls were raging. We continued downstream 1/8 of a mile or so to a bridge that spans the river. Here walkers can get a better view of the falls from the bridge. Hikers also can make a 1/2-mile loop by crossing the bridge and heading downstream to another bridge above Tumwater Falls, then hike back upstream to the first bridge. Both sides of the river are scenic and offer good views.

We saved the bridge for the return loop and continued downstream, admiring the mossy fish ladders beside Middle Tumwater Falls. This waterfall often is overlooked because it is overshadowed by the presence of fish ladders when salmon head upstream in the fall. The lower falls -- the most dramatic -- is at the bottom of the loop, about 1/4 of a mile from the entrance of Tumwater Falls Park. It is best viewed from the wooden bridge above it. You also can view the falls by descending a metal staircase to a concrete viewing platform, though part of the waterfall is hidden.

The trail is pretty on both sides of the river, with small waterfalls spilling from cliffs -- find benches tucked away at strategic intervals, ultimate Zen spots on a winter day when the falls are roaring and you can be truly alone.

The falls were originally called "the Chutes" or "Puget Sound Falls" by the Hudson Bay Co. and renamed Tumwater Falls in the 1900s. In Chinook, the name is derived from the word for rushing water, "Tumtum." The district was occupied in historic times by Salish Indians. Tumwater was founded in 1845 as "New Market," the first American community north of the Columbia River. The historic brick brewhouse was built in 1906. Tumwater Falls Park was established in 1962 and Historical Park was built in 1980 by the City of Tumwater.

If you go

• Getting there: Historical Park and Capitol Lake -- From Seattle, go south on Interstate 5 toward Olympia and get off at Exit 103 (Second Avenue) and turn left. At the flashing light, turn left onto Custer Way as it crosses the freeway. At the end of the overpass, take a sharp right turn, curving down to a stop sign on Deschutes Way. Turn right and continue a short distance, then turn right again onto Simmons Road and into the well-signed park. Note: The sign for Simmons Road is small.
• Tumwater Falls Park -- Follow directions as above, but when you get to Simmons Road, turn left and continue a short distance into the park.
• Trail data: For Historical Park and Capitol Lake, the trail is 2 miles one way with an .8-mile loop, mostly paved, no elevation gain. This trail is open to bicycles; dogs are allowed but must be on a leash. Park amenities include restrooms, playgrounds, picnic shelter and fishing docks. There also is disabled access (restrooms and trail) with the exception of the loop trail east of Marathon Park and the Marsh Trail in Historical Park. The trail in Tumwater Falls Park is a 1/2-mile loop, no significant elevation gain.
• Information: Visit Tumwater Parks at www.olywa.net/tumwater/ or refer to "Take A Walk" by Sue Muller Hacking (Sasquatch, 246 pages, $16.95). The map is USGS Tumwater (7 1/2 minutes).

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