Old-growth forest and cascading beauty

Now is a good time to visit popular hikes before they become crowded in summer, such as the Denny Creek Trail, a route that climbs into the Alpine Lakes Wilderness and leads to Denny Creek Slippery Slabs.

In summer, hikers can continue to Melakwa Lake or beyond, but for now Denny Creek is a good turnaround point. Another popular trail nearby is the one to Franklin Falls, a busy place on a warm summer day.

When I arrived at the Franklin Falls trailhead, there were still a few snow patches at the trailhead, signaling that I would be hiking in snow before I ventured far. While I won't rhapsodize about the splendor of old-growth forest as I often do, I will say that this trail is where you'll find it.

As the trail starts to follow the South Fork of the Snoqualmie River, you'll probably notice a few cabins poetically tucked away in evergreens on the other side, but soon all signs of civilization are left behind.

Short spurs venture to the river's edge, tempting photographers with moss-frosted boulders and the frothy lace of fast water. One stretch of trail is under water, but a hillside offers a safe detour around it. As the trail gains elevation, getting those photos becomes a bigger challenge and even can be dangerous. Fortunately, sturdy railings will help keep unwary hikers from getting too close to cliffs, where other waterfalls are hidden by vegetation.

Off to the right it will be hard to miss a cathedral-size cedar at rest upon a skirt of tangled roots. Near this gnarled behemoth you'll come to a junction where you can make a loop via the Wagon Road Trail, but the sign is high in a tree and easy to miss. As you approach the sound of thundering water, Franklin Falls comes into view and, even if you've seen it before, it is always an awesome sight.

KAREN SYKES

You'll barely be able to see the forest for this one gigantic tree, a gnarly ancient cedar, that guards the trail to Franklin Falls.

After you spot the waterfall, the trail descends to the base of the falls, but it is a dangerous descent and the water is high. There is also a slippery rock that slants downhill without substantial handholds. In summer it is safe to scramble down for a closer look, though small children will need help. I ventured as close as I dared, but spray from the cataract made photography impossible. I took shelter under an evergreen to shoot photos as the river tore its way down the steep gorge where remnants of snow still cling to dark cliffs.

If you feel like you are in the middle of nowhere, look again -- above the 70-foot waterfall is an Interstate 90 bridge, the second bridge built at this site. The original was damaged by an avalanche and was rebuilt higher, so avalanches would slide under the bridge. So far, so good.

On my way down, I missed the sign for the Wagon Road loop, so I returned the way I came. Back at the trailhead, I walked .25 mile to the Denny Creek trailhead. Snow patches lingered near the trailhead and soon old puncheon spanned a dark pool of water where a small island of vegetation topped with skunk cabbage begged for a photograph.

Delicate ferns, white trilliums and yellow violets continually drew the gaze downward. Stand still long enough and you can almost watch false lily of the valley creep toward the trunks of ancient trees. Denny Creek was more akin to a river than a creek and was roaring with snowmelt.

The trail leaves the creek to pass under I-90 and, if not for the sound of traffic, you might think you had stumbled upon the remains of a forgotten temple when encountering the support columns. The underbelly of an interstate highway is an odd thing to contemplate in such a sylvan setting, but soon the freeway is left behind and the silence returns.

Solid snow began just before the trail entered the Alpine Lakes Wilderness at about a mile. Enough hikers had been here, making the boot-beaten route easy to follow. The snow was firm -- perfect for hiking.

After an easy climb of 500 feet or so, the trail crosses Denny Creek on a bridge with railings. Here the snow had pulled away from the Denny Creek Slippery Slabs, where the water has scoured out a natural water slide at about 2,700 feet. In summer, this is a favorite destination for families who come to picnic and play when the water is low. It also is a handy stop for weary hikers returning from Melakwa Lake or a lonely summit.

Though I was tempted to follow tracks toward higher realms, I called it quits -- it was too snowy for my taste and I had not brought an ice ax.

If you go

* Getting there -- From Seattle go east on Interstate 90. Get off at Exit 47 and turn left over I-90. In .25 mile, turn right onto Forest Service Road 58, pass the Denny Creek Campground and about 2.5 miles from I-90, turn left onto Forest Service Road 5830. Continue .25 mile to the Denny Creek trailhead at the end of the road, elevation 2,300 feet. The Franklin Falls Trail begins .25 mile below the Denny Creek trailhead. Allow about 45 minutes drive time from Seattle.

* Trail data -- Denny Creek (Trail No. 1014) to Denny Creek Slippery Slab is 2.5 miles round trip, with 500 feet of elevation gain. Franklin Falls (Trail No. 1036) is 2 miles round trip, with about 180 feet of elevation gain. If you make a loop via the Wagon Road Trail No. 1021, elevation gain and mileage are about the same.

* Information -- The map is Green Trails No. 207 Snoqualmie Pass. A Northwest Forest Pass is required for parking. If you hike to Denny Creek, fill out a permit to enter the Alpine Lakes Wilderness. For more information on these trails, refer to "55 Hikes Around Snoqualmie Pass: Mountains-to-Sound Greenway," by Harvey Manning and Ira Spring (Mountaineers, 189 pages, $14.95). You also can call the Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest at 360-888-1421 or visit the Web site: www.fs.fed.us/r6/mbs.

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